Beauty

Published on August 6th, 2013 | by beauty international

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Top 4 Makeup Trends from the Autumn Winter 2013 Catwalks

Perfect, Luminous Skin

image: Victoria Beckham (from style.com), Chloé (from style.com), Balmain (from style.com)

image: Victoria Beckham (from style.com), Chloé (from style.com), Balmain (from style.com)

The ‘no makeup makeup’, fresh dewy skin look has been a popular catwalk beauty look for ages; this season the emphasis was more on creating perfect, velvety-soft skin with the aid of foundation, concealer and powder. At Victoria Beckham, the aim was to enhance the models’ own natural features; makeup artist Diane Kendal evened out the skin and lips with foundation, lightly filled in the brows and added a super thin black line on the top lash line for definition. At Chloé, Kendal created an even more minimalistic look: foundation was used on the lips as well as the skin again, but there was no makeup at all on the eyes – no shadow, no liner, not even mascara. The effect was fresh and easy, healthy and natural-looking. At Isabel Marant and Balmain, Tom Pecheux also created minimalist looks that focused on perfect skin: at Isabel Marant, the makeup artists spent 25 minutes prepping the skin and only 5 minutes on other makeup!

Lady-like

image: Bottega Veneta (from style.com), Carolina Herrera (from fearnobeauty.com), Marc by Marc Jacobs (from style.com)

image: Bottega Veneta (from style.com), Carolina Herrera (from fearnobeauty.com), Marc by Marc Jacobs (from style.com)

Many designers chose to send lady-like, 40s-inspired looks down the runway for the autumn and winter season, in keeping with the Hitchcock leading lady style that proved so popular with the season’s fashion. At Bottega Veneta, tribute was paid to the soft curls and muted makeup of classic German beauties such as Hedy Lamarr and Marlene Dietrich: the matte burnt orange lips (a shade created especially for the catwalk show) and dark chocolate brown eyelids looked beautifully grown-up, a sexy but elegant alternative to some of the more daring makeup trends for the coming season. Dick Page’s look for the Marc by Marc Jacobs runway show was equally glamorous; he pulled of a glossy, bold red lip by keeping the base velvety smooth and softly diffusing the eyes with classic neutral shades.

Berry-Stained Lips

image: Marni (from style.com), Prada (from style.com), Vera Wang (from style.com)

image: Marni (from style.com), Prada (from style.com), Vera Wang (from style.com)

As with spring and summer this autumn and winter lips will mainly be matte, with deep and bold shades of red winning out against girlie pinks. At Marni, Tom Pecheux created diffused berry-stained lips; a deep burgundy mink stole in the collection inspired the lip colour, which was created by layering crimson, wine and deep red shades. The mouth was outlined with a Q-tip to diffuse and blur the lip line; Pat McGrath achieved a similar effect at Prada almost accidentally, as the models blurred their lip colour by eating and drinking. At both Marni and Prada the bold lips were offset with wet, glossy lids – but at Vera Wang, where two-toned crimson lips provided the focal point, the rest of the face was kept almost entirely bare, with just a sweep of shimmery shadow and no mascara or liner, with filled-out eyebrows balancing the lip colour.

Grunge

image: Versace (from style.com), Giles (from style.com), Rodarte (from style.com)

image: Versace (from style.com), Giles (from style.com), Rodarte (from style.com)

While a fair amount of fashion designers referenced the grunge and punk eras in their autumn and winter 2013 collections, this inspired the makeup artists in various ways. At Versace there was just a hint of edginess: the black-rimmed eyelids which are seen here almost every season weren’t smudged out, and the skin was kept smooth and glowing. The inner rims of the eyes were lined with a dark black kohl, but the lips, eyes and cheeks were all stained with a similar colour blush, giving a healthy, flushed appearance. An entirely different look was achieved at Giles, where the makeup looks were inspired by Tim Burton’s haunted, gothic female characters. Eyes were swept with pale purple and brown eyeshadows, extending below the lower lash line to create a hollow, sunken look. No mascara was used on the eyelashes, and the lips were blotted out with concealer. An entirely different look again at Rodarte, where makeup artist James Kaliardos was inspired by a beachy, California look. Smudged eye makeup was created by using the tip of a mascara wand to dot eyeshadow along the lower lashline, as if beach humidity had smudge the models’ makeup. The eye makeup at Saint Laurent was smudged too; heavily-rimmed eyes had a tear-stained effect, in keeping with the label’s 90s grunge era aesthetics this season.

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